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Pedal and mettle needed to see what's missed on Jordan's beaten paths

It is day four, and I am manoeuvring a gravel path that in no way qualifies as a road. From the edge of the great eastern plateau of Jordan, I peer into Wadi Araba, a 300 metre canyon of stone and rocky outcroppings. This is no grass-filled valley bisected by a gentle stream. Beyond, the canyon is desert - flat and without the dunes to which I am accustomed. I stop my bike to admire the view.

Thanks to knobbly tires, good balance and being cautious, I manage to stay upright and not careen into the abyss. This ancient, back road of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a far cry from the smooth and seamless Yas Marina Circuit, where I typically cycle. The Tuesday evening Safe Cycling events at Yas made me feel bold enough to attempt the Dead 2 Red, a 500-km ride from Madaba to Aqaba. It is my first trip to Jordan and I will see it by bicycle.

Early Sunday morning our group of 11 meets in the hotel lobby to connect with our guides from Jordan's Terhaal. Most of us opt to rent a nearly new mountain bike from Terhaal. All experienced cyclists, we are keen to head out on the roads and discover Jordan. The atmosphere as we prep is one of nervous anticipation.

The group is diverse and ranges in age from 17 to 57. There's a family from Nottingham: Ed (a solicitor), his wife Laurie (a university professor) and their daughters, Hannah and Izzi, both students. Paul (also a solicitor) and his wife Sharon join us from Ireland. Our five singles - two women and three men - include myself, Lisa (an accountant from Canada), Phil (semi-retired, from the UK), Duncan (a former UK field hockey superstar) and Iñaki (an IT Manager from Northern Spain). Iñaki is tall, lean and supple - built to bike. Is he in Jordan as a warm-up for the Tour de France?

Overall, the group is convivial and there is a healthy enthusiasm to achieve our personal goals. We are accompanied by a bike guide, Raslan, and an operations coordinator, Atef. They provide routes and logistics, bike repairs, first aid, non-stop enthusiasm, historical and cultural information, plus drinks, snacks and lunch to keep everyone fuelled.

Our starting point is Madaba and I arrive the day before we start biking to explore the "Mosaic City". Some mosaics date back to the sixth century, including those in the Greek Orthodox church of St George. They are interesting and well preserved. However, Madaba has a slightly empty feel for me, despite the attractions that lie within.

I leave Madaba and it is an easy pedal on secondary roads to Mount Nebo, from where I look to the west, to Ramallah and Jerusalem. No rain for the first two weeks of April has left it dry and barren.

Continuing on, I travel past isolated farms to the villages of Main and Libb. Part of my journey today is on the ancient route known as the King's Highway, a nicely paved road with little traffic and gentle, rolling hills with pastoral scenery. I arrive in late afternoon at our destination of Mukawir, safe and sound and happy to get off the bike to relax.

Relax? No, not exactly. Our guides include plenty of additional, non-biking activities including a meal with a local family. We set out on foot to visit Mukawir Castle (built in 90BC and famous as the home of King Herod and prison of John the Baptist). This requires a 700-metre climb (with tired legs) to the ruins on top. Once there, the group sits together, has some tea and takes in the sun setting over the Dead Sea. In the twilight, everything is still. I close my eyes and listen carefully to capture sounds coming from Jordan's time-worn hills.

"Sahtain wa 'afiya - to your health," announces Noufan, our host, as he sets out a meal for our group, which resembles a hungry wolf pack. From inside his home, out come numerous platters including mansaf, the national dish of Jordan, and a special aubergine, potato and onion feast for the vegetarians. Mansaf is made with seasoned meat cooked in a sauce made of fermented, dried yogurt known as jameed. There is much fanfare when the mansaf is served on the platter of rice. Lisa, the foodie in the group, explains: "Meals here are a celebration, combining heartfelt generosity and a communal atmosphere." We compliment this Jordanian hospitality: no guest leaves Noufan's home without being completely full.

Day two begins in Mukawir and from the hills, 250 metres above sea level, it is a steep descent on semi-slick roads to the banks of the Dead Sea, at 125 meters below sea level. Arriving at the Mujib Nature Reserve, I gingerly step over the shoreline of dried salt and enjoy my refreshing float in the Dead Sea, taking in the panorama: mountains on one side and the West Bank on the other.

En route south, I am passed by numerous tour buses heading to popular sites in Jordan. The passengers look comfortable, but I want a different kind of experience, where I am closer to the sights, sounds and smells. As I arrive in Al Mazra'ah, school is over for the day and children run towards my bike. They are visibly surprised to discover a middle-aged woman but rebound and embrace an opportunity to test their English with a tentative, "Hello. What is your name?" I reply and ask the same in broken Arabic. The children and I leave this brief encounter with smiles all around. I smile because I am not on that tour bus.

I leave the main road and contemplate my next leg: a 25 kilometre winding climb to our finish point, Karak. We stop for a snack and I consider my options: attempt the hill or immediately accept a ride in the support vehicle. I call it a day and undertake the steep climb to Karak by motor vehicle. I am comfortable with my decision - I know my capabilities. My lesson this day is that distance is less important than ascent, which on this trip averages 1,000 metres to climb per day. Without hills of any significance in Abu Dhabi on which to practise, I am ill prepared to cycle up to Karak.

I am not the only one to grab a lift up this killer hill. Out of our group of 11, only Duncan, Iñaki and Raslan arrive by bicycle.

Karak has a busy feel, unlike Madaba. There are many visitors, and numerous (simple) hotels and restaurants, souvenir shops and coaches. We hurry to visit the castle before it closes and for the first time I feel more tourist than cyclist. Built in 1142, Karak castle was one in the series of crusader fortresses running from Aqaba to Jerusalem. A museum within the castle grounds provides exhibits and information that help me to visualise life behind the walls, including the maze of endless hallways and tunnels created to protect the inhabitants 800 years before.

I relish the thought of cycling downhill from Karak, but there is too much traffic and day three begins with a transfer to a safe starting point. I start south on the King's Highway, past agricultural fields and several small villages, then connecting with a newly paved road. It is an easy, freewheeling downhill ride to Al Hassa dam.

What goes down must go up (at least for cyclists in Jordan). From the dam it is an 800-metre climb to our lunch stop near Ayma. The climb is made easier with lots of hydration. A variety of fluids are always in great supply, cheerfully provided by Atef in the support vehicle. Less abundant are washroom facilities. I convince myself that I am being eco-friendly and a minimal-impact visitor without flush toilets. I also convince myself that hand sanitiser will suffice until the next sink with soap and running water.

After lunch we bypass Tafila, going onto Jeep tracks and farm trails, where I give way to shepherds moving their livestock. I am happy to let the sheep and goats cross in front of me, but less happy about the dogs that accompany the flock. They are aggressive and completely ignore my threats, whistles and shrieks. Today's lesson learnt is that my best protection from territorial canines is to keep pedalling.

Along with this "dog day", I encounter the first headwinds of the trip and my progress, while steady, is slow. I eventually make it to our destination for the day, Dana Biosphere Reserve. Duncan and Iñaki are almost always in the lead. They have boundless energy, their own bikes, which they shipped to Jordan, and infinite technical skill. The more demanding the terrain, the more they rise to the challenge. After three days of cycling, I am stronger but not in their league.

Day four starts clear and cool and we leave Dana very early for Petra. Our accommodation in Dana is rustic, and I am already looking forward to a room with my own shower. We are back on paved roads, so I make better speed today. Before long, we arrive at Shobak Castle, Jordan's first crusader fortress built in 1115. Like Karek, it is perched on the side of a hill 1,300 meters above sea level. But unlike Karek, it is isolated and off the beaten track. There's not a tourist or a souvenir shop in sight, which adds to the medieval atmosphere.

To visit Shobak, I leave my bike behind I don a head torch, descend into a dark well and proceed through a tunnel. For the next 20 minutes, I scramble on hands and knees up a near-vertical shaft of what once were stairs, until I see the light of day. I remind myself this is a holiday. When I finally make it to the top of Shobak, I enjoy the artefacts including cannonballs and Islamic calligraphy, both well preserved.

From this position, I see many small, stone homes blending in with the yellow and beige tones of the hillsides. Slightly larger than a hut and without utilities, they are inhabited year round. This is not a wealthy country and travelling the back roads offers me an intimate view of the simple life of many Jordanians.

I begin a stretch of off-road cycling on very difficult terrain. We could take the King's Highway to Petra, but instead travel along Wadi Araba. The trade-off for a more challenging route is the grandeur. The cyclists in front of me appear like dots against the enormous canyon backdrop. I have difficulty catching up to them, but they provide so much motivation. Their cheers when I make it up a difficult hill and encouragement to get back on the bike after a nasty fall help me to face the physical demands of getting to Petra.

The pay-off for the really tough day is an entire day off the bike to explore the wonders of Petra. Beautiful and awe-inspiring as it is, there is a lot of walking and climbing to get the best views. This rest day is not exactly relaxing. We share ideas on effective ways to deal with a bike-tired and stair-weary body and within minutes the best idea gets implemented. Our group takes over the Salome Turkish Bath (www.salometurkishbath.com). Dirty, hot and aching, I am commandeered through the process of steam, water, more steam, scrubbing and massage. I feel human again. For 24 Jordanian Dinar (Dh125) it seems a small price for detoxification after this kind of adventure travel.

Off to Wadi Rum. The day begins with a transfer south on the King's Highway to Rajif. From there we cycle to Delagha, and start on a gravel track to Al Humaimah, a stopping place on the spice route once used by camel caravans. Leaving Humaimah, I cross the desert highway, and as I leave the salt flats, the terrain changes to sandstone formations, larger and more colourful with each kilometre.

Wadi Rum is a highlight of the trip for me and despite the near impossible requirement to cycle in soft sand and undertaking the final stretch with an almost flat tire, this day has been one of incredible and varied terrain and landscapes.

It is the final day of cycling and after a week of on-road, off-road and soft sand, we make it to Aqaba. The trip concludes in downtown, where we dismount the bikes, share a delicious mezze lunch, thank our guides and congratulate each other on successfully completing this challenge.

We have some time before the trip ends and we disperse. On our second day, we took to the Dead Sea, therefore it is only fitting we do the same in the Red Sea, to truly cap the Dead 2 Red experience. A transfer is arranged and we are off to South Aqaba to swim, snorkel, relax and relive our shared adventure.

The trip was highly enjoyable, while at the same time challenging. Jordan is well suited to exploration by bicycle and, as this means of travel grows in popularity, itineraries, hotels and other services will develop and diversify to support cyclists of all levels, budgets and interests.

I finish the Dead 2 Red tired, but not dead and only a little red from the wind and sun of the past week. I feel connected to Jordan's landscape and people more deeply than if I had gone by car from Madaba to Aqaba. I end the adventure with a reaffirmation that there is no better way to see the world than with pedals and two wheels.

Almost 75% of cyclists killed in Dublin were hit by HGVs turning left

An eye opening report prepared by Dublin City Council from Garda statistics last year on cycling accidents throws up some revealing statistics on accidents involving cyclists.

There were approximately 427 collisions involving cyclists reported to the Garda in Dublin city over the period (2002 to 2006), 11 of which involved fatalities.

11 Fatalities

• 8 of these deaths were of cyclists killed by left-turning Lorries
• 1 involved a vehicle hitting a cyclist when changing lanes
• 1 a vehicle rear-ended the cyclist
• 1 was caused by a stolen vehicle driving head on into a cyclist.

Cars involved in 70% of cyclist accidents

• Almost 70 per cent off all cycle collisions involved cars.
• Left-turning vehicles were involved the majority of fatalities,
• The most common collision involved right-turning cars. These accounted for just fewer than 20 per cent of incidents.
• The next most common type is classified as “side swipes”, accounting for 15 per cent of collisions. These occur where a vehicle overtaking a cyclist or changing lanes hits the bicycle.
• Door opening accidents accounted for about 14 per cent of incidents
• Left-turning vehicles hitting cyclists accounted for just over 12 per cent.

Crashes where the fault is more likely to be attributable to the cyclist accounted for a much smaller proportion of incidents. In just over 4 per cent a cyclist hit a pedestrian, while in fewer than 3 per cent of collisions a cyclist turned right into on-coming traffic.

The more serious a crash, the more likely it was to involve a vehicle turning left, according to the report.

While 73 per cent of fatalities were at a left turn (all involving HGVs) almost one-third resulting in serious injury to the cyclist involved a left-turning vehicle.

November the most dangerous month to cycle in Dublin?

The report also found that November was the worst month for collisions.

Cyclists between the ages of 20 and 29 were the most likely to be involved in incidents.

The traffic department is to put recommendations to city councilors tomorrow. Chief among these is a recommendation that Cyclops mirrors be fitted to HGVs so they can better see cyclists on their left. The report found that in the majority of left-turning collisions the HGV driver did not see the cyclist.

It also recommends that all cycle lanes be inspected annually.

Several collisions occurred when cyclists were forced to move out of the lane to avoid potholes or sunken gullies.

Top four types of cycle accidents

• Drivers turning right in front of an oncoming bicycle.
• Drivers hitting a bicycle when overtaking or changing lanes.
• Car doors being opened in front of cyclists.
• Drivers hitting cyclists when turning left.

Recommendations

• Segregation of bicycles and HGVs where possible.
• Awareness campaign on the danger of left-turning HGVs.
• Upgrade of cycle lanes to remove potholes, sunken gullies and poor surfaces.
• Enforcement of legislation regarding the use of bicycle lights.
• Encourage more cycling to produce a “safety in numbers” effect.
• Provide additional cycling infrastructure on a “most used routes” priority basis.
• “Cyclops” mirrors made compulsory on all HGVs.
  

Dublin Bikes Launch new service

September 2009 saw the introduction of a bicycle access scheme to Dublin 450 bikes became available to member of the public in what has been a resounding success. The bikes are available for use throughout the city for a nominal fee from various stations listed below

List of Dublin Bike stations:

There are a variety of ways you can avail of this great service
+ a Long Term Hire Card for an annual fee of €10
+ A 3 Day Ticket which costs just €2.

If you have registered, the first 30 minutes of every journey is free.

Dublin Bikes have issued a series of recommendations to help cyclist enjoy the service in a safe manner.
For Further information check out www.dublinbikes.ie

Road Safety Guidelines from Dublin Bikes.

• Respect road signs and signals (red lights, one-way streets, stop signs, 
• Rules of the Road apply to all road users.
• Do not cycle on footpaths.
• Cycle in single file even when cycling in a group.
• Signal changes of direction with your arm.
• Watch out for vehicle doors opening.
• Do not undertake vehicles if they are turning left.
• On the road, keep left. Unless specific paths are provided, you must follow this rule to ensure the safety of everyone on the road.
• Always consider your own safety and that of others at all times.
• Be aware of other cyclists and ensure they can always see you.
• Always look out for pedestrians, particularly at traffic lights and pedestrian crossings.
• Always be alert to what’s happening around you. Wearing headphones while cycling is not advised.
• When you brake in an emergency, keep your weight on the saddle.

Advice from Dublin bikes

Before you set out, here are some helpful tips to make your journey comfortable and safe.

• Adjust the saddle to waist level; you should be able to put your feet on the ground.
• Check the brakes, tyres and lighting are working.
• Adapt your speed to suit weather conditions.
• Wear reflective clothing in bad weather conditions and at night.
• Do not transport passengers; the db is designed to carry only one person.
• We recommend that you wear a cycling helmet and high visibility clothing.

Your liability

• You must adhere to the General Conditions of Access and Use.
• To use Dublin bikes, you must be at least 14 years of age (minimum height: 1.5M).
• Public liability insurance covering cycling related accidents is recommended to use the service.
• When returning your db, ensure that it is locked correctly on its stand.
• Use the anti-theft device if you are leaving your db for a short period.
• You must return your db within 24 hours. After that, the guarantee of €150 will be debited and the db will be reported stolen.
• Do not lend the db or your subscription card to any other person (you are bound by the General Conditions of Access and Use).